All About Animal-Based Materials
Leather
Despite the common belief that leather is a by-products of the meat industry, the demand exceeds production, and as a result, it operates as a separate industry responsible for the slaughter of approximately 2.29 billion animals across the globe annually [1]. This means that while animals used for leather and suede are killed in Australia, skins and products are also imported from other countries as well. Some of the global leaders in leather production are China, Brazil, Russia, India, and Brazil [2]. There are currently no requirements to label the species of a leather product, making it extremely difficult, and most often impossible, to decipher what country the leather came from or which species it has come from.
All animals used for their skin are prematurely killed. Some dairy cows and ewes are killed while pregnant, as the leather produced by the unborn calf or lamb – known as slink or slunk leather - is considered “softer” and can be deemed a higher quality [12, 13].
The tannery industry is listed as the most polluting activity due to the wide type of chemicals applied during the conversion of animal skins into leather [23]. Every year, over 4 million tonnes of solid waste is generated by the global leather industry. The leather tanning stage involves soaking the animal skin in a liquid containing tannic acid and other chemicals, to permanently alter the protein structure of the skin, preventing it from breaking down. One common misconception is the belief that leather is natural and biodegradable or eco-friendly, however, the tanning process actually stops the leather from biodegrading by stabilising the collagen or protein fibres.
Those who work with leather, wool, and fur are exposed to the toxic chemicals which cause serious skin conditions, tuberculosis, blindness, gastrointestinal issues. Children are also being born with severe mental and physical disabilities [37]. Studies have found that 90% of tannery workers in these areas die before they are 50 due to chemical exposure and equipment accidents [38]. Disturbingly, slave labour is also common with many workers being children as young as five. Studies have found that they are already infected with deadly diseases and commonly suffer from burns, intoxication, fumigation, fractures and amputations, and vision impairment [39, 40, 41].
Fur
Every year, over 100 million minks, foxes, raccoon dogs, cats, rabbits, hamsters and chinchillas are bred and killed on intensive farms for their fur, making up 85% of the fur trade [1]. This excludes the additional wild animals, such as coyotes and harp or hooded seals, who are hunted for their skin, which equates to over 3 million individuals in North America alone [2]. Australia has no domestic fur farms, meaning all fur used and sold is imported from Canada, the USA, Europe, China, Korea, Thailand, and the Philippines [4].
From a consumer perspective, it can be incredibly difficult to tell the difference between faux-fur products, or those that are in fact real fur being sold as faux. Due to the number of animals being killed in China, it is actually cheaper in some instances to sell real fur as faux to producers [14]. Additionally, the globalisation of the fur industry has made it almost impossible for consumers to know where the products are coming from. Even if a clothing item is labelled as being made in Europe, for example, it is very possible that the fur has come from a Chinese fur farm. On top of this, there are no penalties for those who abuse animals on fur farms in China, which is the world’s largest fur exporter [15].
Wool
Sheep naturally produce just enough wool to survive the winter months. In their natural state, they would shed this coat for the summer months – meaning they do not need humans to remove it. Through selective breeding, humans have altered wild sheep to create the domestic Merino breed who produces more wool, while simultaneously removing their ability to naturally shed. Merino sheep have extra skin which increases the surface area and thus creates more wool [4].
Sheep are non-native to Australia, and they are not naturally suited to the hot Australian climate – especially the Merino breed which is prone to flystrike. Flystrike is when flies lay eggs on soiled wool or open wounds, and maggots feed off of the sheep’s flesh. To combat this, farmers conduct mulesing on lambs, which involves cutting off their tail and breech skin to reduce the chance of soiling, often without pain relief [5]. Despite what the industry claims, mulesing has proven to cause pain and suffering in the lambs [6, 7].
There is a common misconception that sheep are not harmed in the process of shearing. While domestic sheep do need to be sheared due to selective breeding, the commercial process causes suffering. Workers are paid on the volume of sheep they shear, rather than by the hour. The average shearer will shear approximately 200 sheep a day, allocating them just 2-3 minutes per sheep[12]. As a result, sheep are roughly handled, and suffer from cuts and mutilations. Sheep can live for 10-12 years, with some even reaching 20 years! The wool industry, however, considers them to be no longer profitable after just 5-6 years and they are sent to slaughter. Alternatively, they are exported.
Feathers
Across the globe, geese, ducks, ostriches, emus, and turkeys, are exploited for their feathers. Whilst feathers are referred to as a by-product of the meat industry, this claim is misleading to consumers, as some producers in China and Europe practice live-plucking, sometimes multiple times, before the animal is sent to slaughter for meat. China is the world’s largest producer of down, accounting for 80% of global production. As China has no animal welfare standards or laws, most farms conduct live plucking to increase profits [1, 2, 3]. Once their feathers are ripped out, many of the birds become traumatised and paralysed with fear. Some die as a result of the procedure. Geese can have this done up to six times a year, before being slaughtered [5].
As with fur, leather, and wool, companies do not have to state where the feathers are sourced from. The lack of transparency makes it impossible to know whether you are supporting or avoiding the live-plucking of animals when purchasing any feather items.
How to Avoid Materials Made From Animals
Want to ditch fur, leather, suede, wool, cashmere, and feathers (down)? It’s never been easier!
Fur
How to know if it’s real or faux
While there are plenty of faux fur options out there, occasionally real fur is being sold as faux. There are currently no regulations regarding the labelling of fur, and studies have found that real fur is being sold as faux because in some cases it is cheaper than making actual faux fur.
Don’t worry though, here are some tips to know if the fur is real or fake!
1. Don’t rely on the price.
Just because something is cheap or expensive, doesn’t mean it is fake or real. Cheap real fur comes from factory farms where animals are living in appalling conditions. It could also mean it is fur from dogs and cats.
2. Look at the base of the hair.
Part the hair and have a look at how it is attached. Real fur tends to be attached to the processed skin, whereas fake fur generally has a fabric backing. You could also use a pin to push through the base. If it goes through easily it is fake, if it requires a little effort it may mean it is leather.
3. Check the hair tips
Real fur tapers off at the end, whereas faux fur tends to be blunt. This isn’t always 100% accurate, as the real fur could be deliberately cut shorter (taking off the taper).
4. If in doubt, don’t buy it.
If you still cannot tell 100% if something is real or fake, please avoid purchasing it
Alternatives
One of our favourite brands is Unreal Fur. This epic brand is not only animal friendly, but they also make sure their material is made from sustainable fibres and are constantly developing their products to reduce their environmental footprint. Currently, their products are made from recycled fabrics, however, they are also looking at transitioning to hemp and PET fibres.
Leather & Suede
How to know if it’s real or faux
1. Check the label.
Most leather products have a “genuine leather” label on them as they feel this adds value to the product, alternative products often say “man-made PU”. We recommend doing the other steps too, just to make sure.
2. Smell it – yep, you read that right.
Leather has a distinct smell – if you’re unsure what this is, smell an item that you know is genuine and then compare it to a synthetic product! Not going to lie, we are pretty happy that synthetic leathers do not have this smell.
3. Test the texture and look at the pores.
Faux leather tends to have perfect pores or textures and are typically smooth or with a plastic-like feel. Real leather, on the other hand, is more unique in the texture and pores, as it is the skin of an animal. Real leather is also more stretchy than faux leather.
4. Look at the edges.
Leather tends to have a rough, natural-looking edge where the skin has been cut. Faux leather looks smooth and perfect.
Alternatives
Polyurethane (PU) leather is currently the most common leather alternative, however, it is often slammed for not being environmentally friendly. This argument is invalid when you compare it to the devastating environmental impacts of farming cows and processing their skin into leather. For more information on this, please see “Why shouldn’t I eat beef?” and “What are the true costs of materials?”.
In saying this, finding a more environmentally friendly solution is always a better option – and entrepreneurs from all over the globe are doing just this. Adrián López Velarde and Marte Cázarez have created Desserto, made from cacti, Dr Carmen Hijosa created Pinatex, from pineapple leaves, and other inspiring innovators are using apples, cork, mushrooms, soybeans, recycled paper, and of course, recycled plastic. Excitingly, we can expect to see more ethical brands using these materials to replace animal-skin products in the near future.
Wool & Cashmere
How to know if it’s real or faux
Wool is a little bit trickier as acrylic and cotton materials can make wonderful replicates.
1. Check the label.
Most brands and companies want to advertise if their products are real wool and cashmere, so always check the label. If it is faux, it will typically say acrylic or cotton.
2. Feel the item.
Touch items that you know are cashmere, wool, or angora, and then compare them to faux items. It can be a little hard to distinguish the two, so if you are ever unsure, the safest thing to do is to not purchase the item.
3. Felting test.
If you are looking for yarn, take two pieces of the same yarn and wet the ends a little. Then fray them, push one end into the other and rub. If it stays together, it is real, if it doesn’t, it is fake.
Alternatives
Wool alternatives have been around for years, as people can be allergic to the fibres. As a result, companies use cotton, cotton flannel, polyester fleece, synthetic shearling, Tencel, or Polartec Wind Pro, made from recycled water bottles! Tencel is one of the newer, more environmentally friendly options on the market made from raw material wood!
Feathers
Unfortunately, faux feathers for costumes or decorations are yet to hit the shelves, but there are some wonderful alternatives for other feather/down products (listed below).
Some of our favourite brands and options
Cotton feathers by Crafts Junction.
Jackets
A range of brands are now using recycled bottles instead of down to insulate their jackets!
Shoes
Wallets, Bags, and Belts
Cleaning products
Instead of feather dusters, use microfibre ones instead!
Bedding
When looking for new bedding, seek out bamboo, organic linen, microfibre, corn fibre, or microgel products, and avoid down, wool, and silk. With these top picks, you can rest easy knowing no animals were directly harmed in the making of your cosy bed:
Pure Zone’s Alternative Down Quilt
Pure Zone’s Bamboo Quilt
Bambi’s 100% biodegradable Ecorenew Ingeo Quilt
Eco Down Under’s Corn Fibre Pillow
Other
I Wool Knit have a great range of vegan yarns.
Meet Fig & Finch
Fig was born on a fur farm in the United States – but unlike the millions of animals who are tortured for their skins, his story has a happy ending.
The fur farmer surrendered Fig because he developed a bacterial infection that caused him to lose his left foot, most of his toes on his other feet, and his sight. These deformities as a result of the bacterial infection meant that the farmer would not be able to profit off of his skin.
Fig’s carers were told that he would either need a prosthetic or for his leg to be amputated. This was because he is missing his foot and his wrist couldn’t support his weight and would lead to more problems. Further tests found that he wouldn’t need the prosthetic all the time, just when he was on walks or outdoors!
His carers say that he has grown into the sweetest animal in the family. “He never ceases to surprise me with how loving and kind he is to not only myself, but all of the other animals that live with us. He is often the first one to befriend any of our foster animals and greats everyone with a happy smile.”
Fig’s friend Finch also came from a fur farm. Instead of being used for his coat, he spent five to six years in a small wire bottom cage for breeding. When he was no longer in his productive years the fur farmer decided to release him to a rescue group instead of killing him.
Despite his years in a confined prison cell, Finch transformed into an extremely sweet, gentle, and calm fox. His carers say he is the “perfect ambassador for foxes as he greets everyone with the same respectful and sweet demeanour.”
Fig and Finch live in a home full of rescued exotics, including three other foxes, two sugar gliders, and an opossum, as well as Moose, a rescue Australian shepherd malamute mix. All of the animals cannot be released into the wild because of their genetic differences, but live happy, full lives with their loving adoptive family and their doggo brothers.
Fig when he was first rescued vs a few months later!
Fig with his first prosthetic leg.
Fig with Moose.
Finch now.
Finch when he was first rescued, and after a few months of love.